In 2006, US-based hotelier Sant Chatwal’s son Vikram had allegedly spent ₹100 crores for his wedding to Priya Sachdev. The festivities spanned over 10 days in three different cities of India – Mumbai, Udaipur and Delhi. Almost 600 guests from 26 countries were flown in on private chartered jets! Almost 70 private cars, more than 50,000 kg of flowers from Holland and Bangkok, and 65,000 meters of fabric for the décor were used, according to media reports.

Then came the Mittals. Vanisha, daughter of steel magnate Lakshmi Mittal, had a wedding at Palace of Versailles, Vaux-le-Vicomte, and Jardin de Tuileries in a six-day event in 2004. Twelve Boeing jets were part of this mammoth wedding. Pop singer Kylie Minogue charged a bomb to perform in France. With a 20-page silver-plated invitation, Vanisha and Amit’s was the “most expensive wedding” making it to the Guinness World Records. Ambanis we all know, so not going there as so much has been written about it.

There has been a deluge of wedding exhibitions springing up in the last decade. Bridal Asia and Wedding Asia have managed to survive the onslaught of time. Vivaah, the oldest, had to wind up.

Just to give you an overview, FDCI Manifest Wedding Weekend, the wedding collective by Isha Ambani, The India Story by Madhu Neotia, The Pink Post by Mitali, The Dhoom Dhaam Company by Tanya Ghavri, Jalsa by Timsy Anand, and then The Vogue Wedding Show, seemingly have buyers.There must be plenty more for the truth is that no one buys off the shelves, they come to compare prices as it is an open platform.

There is no doubt these exhibitions want to satiate our wedding industry worth $130 billion. On an average, ₹12 lakh is spent on a wedding, according to Jefferies, a global research company. There are 80 lakh to one crore weddings in India annually, bigger than China and the US, says Money Control. According to The Economist, it provides employment opportunities for millions.

Zerodha co-founder Nikhil Kamath, talking about weddings in India, says “traditionally uncool industries” have huge potential. “With this industry as fragmented as it is, I can’t think of five dominant brands in this space that occupy any kind of mindshare. Traditionally uncool industries might be where massive opportunities are hiding,” he says in a social media post with information from CAIT, The Knot Worldwide, Wedding Wishlist, Global Opportunity Analysis and industry forecast.

Thirty per cent of weddings are funded by parents, while 70% are co-funded by parents and the couple. Four out of five Indian weddings are funded through loans, says Kamath, quoting India Lends and Wed Me Good. Last year alone saw a wedding business of ₹4.25 lakh crore, up by 13% from 2022. In the next 15 years, 40 crore weddings are likely to take place.

The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) and RPSG Lifestyle Media held the FDCI Manifest Wedding Weekend, at the Taj Palace, New Delhi, on August 3 and 4, 2024. “The event is not only a medium to showcase the best couturiers from the country but an attempt to curate an exhibition that makes trousseau shopping easy and interesting. Accessibility to the best is key here and what is important to note is that among a sea of exhibitions we have the best names and also legendary jewellers, who are known for their design prowess,” says Sunil Sethi, chairman, FDCI.

Veteran designer Anju Modi believes these exhibitions are a marketing exercise for designers participating; people do come and check out. They want to know the handwriting of designers, and are curious about price points. There are always enquiries, but you can never tell how many will convert. Though Modi has done the Vogue Wedding show twice, and observed a non-stop flow of clients, she says, “There is no point doing it a third or fourth time.”

Her classic designs or what she terms as “hit styles” sell well. Those designs are borrowed from our cultural repertoire, and have the power to mesmerize buyers. More than 50% of the business comes from wedding wear, but Anju admits it is not just from the brides, but from the extended family. “Bridal is for one day. What is important is what is before, and after — mehndi, haldi, cocktails, and many more. Brides want customization; we craft according to their physique,” she adds.

What one also factors in is destination weddings which are now becoming the norm. Designs are done accordingly. “My bridal wear is light in weight, subtle, and the hues are attractive. The bride and groom’s mothers buy my classic looks,” says Modi.

Hyderabad-based couturier, Jayanti Reddy, when talking about sales at wedding exhibitions, says exhibitions are more for clients to view the collection. She has stand-alone stores. Most enquiries convert to sales later at the store rather than at an exhibition, unless it is the ready-to-wear pieces. “I’ve participated at the Manifest Wedding Weekend right after India Couture Week and the response has been overwhelming,” says Reddy. Exhibitions are important for visibility, and the luxury pret line – kaftans, kurta dhoti sets, capes, and other Indi-fusion silhouettes – does well. Traditional kurtas and Anarkalis during Diwali to rakhi are easily bought.

Designer Gautam Gupta of the label Asha Gautam, admits that exhibitions bring sales from 25-30%, and around 12-15% of the enquiries do convert. He has participated in various exhibitions in the past 25 years. “They provide an opportunity to introduce your designs to a new audience and help your brand build relationships. Our concept sarees, and Bandhani dupattas with embroidery are popular; 30% of our business runs on bridal sales,” adds Gupta.

For a personal touch, many clients request their names, date of their wedding, or initials embroidered on the dupatta. “We’ve drawn inspiration from the love tales of Nur Jahan and Jahangir, Radha-Krishna, and currently exploring Rukmini’s love for Krishna. We use French knot embroidery, a fusion of craftsmanship and inspiration,” says Gupta.

Hyderabad-based award-winning textile designer Gaurang Shah, known for his woven, pure textiles, believes that participation in shows like Numaish, along with some in Dubai, has helped him establish direct connections with potential clients. “Our bridal sarees, including Banaras, Kanjeevaram, Patan Patola, and Jamdani weaves, are highly sought after. And more than 50% of our business comes from bridal wear. Brides want custom colour combinations, unique motifs, and specific fabric choices. Our craftsmanship of Jamdani weaves, and infusing new textures, yarns, and motifs into conventional designs, is what is loved,” says Shah.

Menswear designer Pawan Sachdeva, says only a few esteemed bridal exhibitions are thriving, particularly outside of Delhi, in cities such as Hyderabad, Chennai, and Kolkata, due to the high level of competition, and an array of organizers. Generally, established exhibitions tend to perform better because of their strong reputation.

“Despite a high footfall, only 15% of enquiries result in sales. I prefer not to participate in bridal exhibitions as my garments are priced at a premium, whereas customers typically seek options within the ₹8,000-₹25,000 range. Exhibitions are a suitable platform for newcomers. Women’s wear generally sells better than menswear, and the sales also depend on the price range,” says Sachdeva. Grooms, he says, place importance on coordinating with the wedding’s themes and decor.

Paras and Shalini of Geisha Designs believe that wedding exhibitions offer a one-stop shop for the occasion’s needs – a mix of traditional and contemporary styles under one roof. They say they receive calls from clients post the exhibitions on their 24×7 customer service, website, Instagram and WhatsApp.

“We do wedding expositions mostly at retail store fronts like Pernia’s Pop-up-Shop & Aza (Hyderabad, Delhi, Mumbai), where we offer a wide choice of designs, and customization options. We do B2B luxury showcases in Dubai,” says Paras.

Geisha Designs is known for evening gowns and red carpet looks. “Our designs perfectly complement cocktail parties, receptions, after-parties, and sundowners, which have become incredibly popular. Additionally, with every Indian wedding incorporating a white wedding concept event (for either their welcome party or reception), our take makes us the popular choice for brides,” says Shalini.

Brides sometimes wish to incorporate an element from their heirloom, or have their jewels already in place. Sometimes they have researched and set mood boards/ themes for their events. Custom corsets and fittings for both comfort and style are also highly requested. Brides often wish to personalize their outfits with names, or love stories on drapes and skirts. Matching outfits for complete families have been an ongoing trend.

Maninder Singh of Wedding Asia, who has thrived for the last 18 years, says he built the company into a tour de force, expanding into 15 cities in India, and doing almost 40 shows a year. They just wrapped up a show in Lucknow. Singh believes weddings are a part of our cultural ethos, and hence more of an emotional connection. For this, participants are willing to pay upwards of ₹1 lakh. As most shows are held in five-star hotels, they get hotel security, plus hire their own.

“The exhibition can get you everything you want. We even did a show in Kolhapur,” says Sethi, who manages a team of 17. “We planned four months in advance, and we survived as we were not selling space or recording footfalls; we are event curators, who help identify an audience.”

The demand in Delhi is so high that four more wedding exhibitions can also survive. “I saw Vikram Chatwal’s wedding and was inspired to get into this business,” concludes Sethi. – Asmita is the Lifestyle Editor of NRI Focus. She is an award winning journalist who has been writing on fashion for the last 32 years