Rahul Mishra has been a regular at the Paris Fashion Week for almost a decade now but this time was different. He became the only Indian designer to be a part of the Paris Couture Week. This global recognition and distinction of being part of the coveted event is by-invitation only. He also launched his new ready-to-wear brand backed by Reliance.

After selling 60% stake of his design house to Reliance, Rahul’s ready-to-wear brand AFEW also had its first showcase at the Palais de Tokyo contemporary art museum in Paris recently. AFEW is an acronym for Air, Fire, Earth, and Water. “However, it acknowledges ‘Space’ as the unifying fifth element that binds them all together. AFEW also draws inspiration from couture, but translates it into a more practical and accessible format for everyday wear,” he says. Some of his couture pieces are worn by Zendaya and Gigi Hadid.

 

It’s a remarkable story of how a boy from a small town Malhuasi, 53 kms away from Kanpur, made it to India’s premier design institute NID, Ahmedabad. He was student of the year and later studied at Istituto Marangoni, Milan, Italy.

Rahul won the Woolmark International Prize in 2014 and soon embarked on a fashion journey to give India a global footprint. He is the only style guru from India, after Manish Arora, who was named creative director of Paco Rabanne, a French fashion powerhouse.

“Our ready-to-wear collections were very well received and even went on to win the Woolmark prize. However, we were also driven to delve into couture at some point. In 2020, we shaped couture through our body of work and skillful craftsmanship. Somehow, COVID contributed to helping us structure couture because we could only produce pieces as per requirements,” he adds.

After he established his presence in couture, he believed it was the right time to expand his vision and create versatile pieces that could be worn by all. Borrowing design sensibilities from couture, Rahul’s easy-to-wear pieces are characterised as lightweight, functional, and travel-friendly.

“We have diversified into two separate units for couture and ready-to-wear which makes it exciting for me as a designer to delve deeper into the creative process, and explore a broader range of ideas and concepts,” says Rahul, who works with his design partner and wife Divya.

AFEW also has silver jewellery, recycled brass, as well as bags and shoes made from Kauna grass in Manipur. “Our collections and designs are not crafted only for the purpose of selling. Each piece is created keeping in mind the different stages involved in creating the final product.”

“The exploration of discovering counter grass from Manipur which is made from straw-like material to construct the final product, and finally showcasing it on a global platform is an unforgettable journey for us,” he says.

 

This time around, he had the opportunity to explore a variety of new materials as he began to design bags and jewellery. It was a new addition to the creative processes and brand journey. But this rootedness that Rahul is known for world over comes from his humble origins. A science student, he never pursued engineering, a profession his father wanted him to embark upon for stability. Rather, he veered towards the arts and fine arts, sketching and crafts.

Corporate investment, many believe, takes away the flexibility and freedom to create without boundaries, and selling 60% stake of his brand to a retail giant makes it vulnerable. Others say it is financially lucrative and there is collaboration and better exposure.

“The joint venture has allowed Divya and me to create, and design with great freedom, enabling us to focus on creativity without the need for micromanagement. This liberty has opened doors for us to pursue various passions, including architecture.

“The collaboration has facilitated teamwork, building upon shared values to deliver an exceptional brand experience. For us, percentages and numbers hold less value than a successful partnership built on mutual respect, acknowledgement of strengths, and the patience to foster a sense of synergy,” he says.

Mishra made his debut with RTW in 2006 and won the Woolmark prize. He soon shifted to haute couture, a distinct genre where he won accolades. He can still recall his time as a student at NID back in 2006, when he would transport the collection pieces in a carton via a train to Ahmedabad.

“From those days to winning a Woolmark prize, the journey has been incredible. I was still in the phase of establishing myself as a designer and with years of experience and desire to create, we are now at a stage where people take notice of our work. We have come a long way since then and now as we venture into different categories, our vision continues to expand as we grow as a team and achieve new heights together,” he explains.

 

In fashion, it is all about being a good storyteller. Rahul believes the real heroes are the craftsmen, almost 1,000 of them work at his plush Noida factory, who create magic on ensembles with deft embroidery techniques.

“As you express the brand’s language through your designs, you ask yourself certain questions, such as what has moved and inspired you in the last six months or any duration for collection creation. After reflecting upon these questions, you gain a sense of clarity and understanding of your vision for a collection,” he says.

Through meticulous thought and masterful craftsmanship, Rahul is keen to infuse passion into each garment, which allows him to offer a product that authentically communicates the narrative and story behind its creation. These elements, along with a dedicated team and skilled craftsmen, shape the outcome.

“Focusing on the process and the practical elements within one’s control is more meaningful than solely focusing on outcomes,” he explains.

For AFEW, he also worked with Michael Nash, a reputed London-based design firm, as well as renowned stylist Jenke Ahmed Tailly, who has worked with Beyonce, Kanye West and Kim Kardashian, making the inputs appealing and crucial for a new brand’s handwriting.

 

The collaborative process has introduced Rahul to newer concepts and fresh ideas, marking the beginning of the venture into an easy-to-wear label. The intent behind partnering up with Michael and Nash was to give a fresh spin to his vision.

“Jenke, a renowned stylist hailing from the Ivory Coast in Africa puts forward his cultural heritage and commitment to inclusivity which translates into our collaboration. His contribution goes beyond work.

“It also offers a new perspective for the brand through the right casting, cinematography, music, and building the overall atmosphere of the show. Jenke displays a strong sense of vision which helps us articulate our shared ideas to life,” says Rahul. – The writer is a senior fashion journalist based in Delhi.

Photographer – Rid Burman (https://www.instagram.com/ridburman/)
Hair & Make Up – Shivani Joshi (https://www.instagram.com/sculpt.ing_/)